''Great expectations'' 2012 by Mike Newell review

I love this modernization of Charles Dickens classic story movie ''Great expectation'' by Mike Newell, because I personally like this genre of movies. This film took me back to the 18th century.
All those luxurious costumes, stunning film set design, the perfectly selected locations and the modern visual effects creating the mood, which perfectly conveys novel's theme.
Convincing directing, commendable famous actors and new efforts richly visualizes the legendary immortal novel about a poor orphan's unnecessary lady love and the manipulation of those around them.


This novel is about a young boy Pip, who lived with his bossy older sister, brother-in-law and his sister's husband blacksmith Joe.
One Christmas Eve, a boy once again visited his parents' graves. Here the fate brings him to a convict, who had escaped from the prison.
Pip couldn't even imagine how fateful meeting and friendship changed his life. Exhausted, starving and tortured to death Magwitch will generously reward the young friend of his sincerity and kindness.
However, Pip's real life begins in the mysterious and eccentric Miss Hawisham's house. There he meets miss Hawisham's adopted daughter Estella. Over the years, the enchanting beauty awakens Pip's purest feelings. He falls in love with beauty Estella, but he does not preserve the expectations to create a happy future with a girl who can't love.

Pip gets a hope to conquer Estella's heart, when the mysterious and undisclosed benefactor volunteers to pay Pip's education and livelihood of luxury in London. An orphan who grew up in a poor environment suddenly falls among high gentlemen. In the capital Pip finds some real friends and enemies. However, among the joys of discovery, hardships and problems of life Pip doesn't forget his love Estela,who's cold heart is often occupied by other competitors.

There are two endings (original and rewritten)
original ending: Pip is hanging out in London a few years later with Joe and Biddy's son, baby Pip, when he runs into Estella. She's had a hard life: her husband was abusive, and when he died she married a poor doctor.
rewritten ending:  Pip visits Miss Havisham's house once more. Estella is walking the grounds, being all single, beautiful, and sad about having thrown Pip's love away. They're going to be together forever.

Ageing practice

Today we did ageing and I really enjoyed doing it.

Products we need for ageing:
1. Supracolor palette
2. Fine pointy brush
3. Base palette
4. Mascara wand
5. Tooth enamel
6. Old powder pads
7. Old age stipple
8. Apros heal barrier cream.
9. Cotton ear buds

Every part of the body is very important. Therefore, never forget the neck and both hands.

The skin (wrinkles)
First of all, I applied foundation on all the face and lips (Because lips are getting lighter during the time). Then I took three colors (red, green and yellow) and mixed all together until the color became brown. I applied it under the cheeks, both sides of nose, under the eyes, under the chin and blended until you don't see the sharp edges. I took my thin brush and draw into all face's wrinkle lines. I must say to smile or make face grumpy, just to see all wrinkles. It is much easier to draw wrinkles like that. After that, I took lighter foundation and brightened all gaps between all wrinkles, to make them even more realistic. Finally, I took old age stipple and put into the red and blue colors. Then I pointed it around the nose area.

Eyebrows and eyelashes
Then I took mascara wand and using white and a little bit of yellow colors( from supracolor palette) I applied both eyebrows and eyelashes.

Teeth
I chose the front tooth to make it yellow. So I took the cotton ear bud and dried the tooth. Then I applied it with Tooth enamel.

After all I put the white long hair wig and took a picture.

Sue told me that I had to make better mix of those three colors, because I got kind of bronze color instead of brown. Also, I will use dry powder and make everything much better, because I will hopefully have more that 10 minutes to do everything.

Before ageing (Model: Jazmine Antonia Collins)

After ageing (Model: Jazmine Antonia Collins)

Victorian Hairstyles

Victorian era had a plenty of compositions of the hairstyles. During this time people thought that women's hair was the most high-priced thing on them. Depending on the current fashion, the false hair was complemented as well.
In the last of the XIX century hats also were very important outfit detail in women's image. At first, they used as protection from the sun. However, after a while, hats became a symbol of style statement and authority. Womens always wore hats when they went out, which was made of velvet cotton or satin and was layered on a wire based covered with straw braids or twisted fabric. 

1830-1860

In this period 1830s-1860s the hairstyles were a little bit similar to the late Elizabethan era. It was fashionable to part the hair in the middle and pull it back or twist the sides to cover the ears. The top of the hair was smooth and sleek. It was also very popular the braids or sausage curls, which framed the face. 

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/336714509614459800/"Mary, Lady Haddo", c. 1840, by Margaret Sarah Carpenter (British, 1793-1872).

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/197665871121186131/1837 Maria Anna Leopoldine, Queen of Saxony by F. A. Zimmermann

1860-1890

During this period the hairstyles became large. Women started to use additional hair fillers and multiple hair pieces, which became very popular. In the late 1870's the hairstyles and the bustles became tighter. During this period ladies started to crimp their hair and style in multiple waves. Pin-curl bangs were also very fashionable. Until the late 1890 the hairstyles typically stayed close to the head and a tight twist on the top was very popular.

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/358388082818850836/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/332210909985800129/1876 Hair Fashions

Victorian hairstyle practice on the doll head

Today we practiced basics of early Victorians era hairstyle (1830) which, personally, was not very difficult for me.
First of all I had to divide a straight line of hair in the front and two straight lines, which ended near the ears.(Tip: If you want to make a straight line, you should always check in the mirror and if you are happy with your line, you can do the rest of the hairstyle).
The divided hair I curled with a curler in four even sections towards to the face. The top of the hair had to be sleek and smooth. From the rest of hair I made a small bun (plaited the simple plait and rolled up together and put a few pins in it).

Sources:  http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/
http://bartoscollection.com/vehairstylesbyera.html

Queen Victoria

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0b/Coronation_portrait_of_Queen_Victoria_-_Hayter_1838.jpg
Sir George Hayter`s coronation portrait for the Queen Victoria.

Queen Victoria was born 24 of May in 1819 in London. She was longevous queen of England and Ireland kingdoms. She was the longest reigning monarch in British history and the longest serving queen in world history.She also was known as the Empress of India and was the figurehead of the British Empire when it was a global leader at the height of its power. She also was associated with Britain great age of industrial expansion, economic progress and empire.

She was married her first cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. They had nine children (Edward VII, Victoria, Princess Royal, Princess Alice of the United Kingdom, Prince Leopold, Duke of Albany, Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll, Princess Beatrice of the United Kingdom, Alfred, Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught and Strathearn, Princess Helena of the United Kingdom)

http://www.corbisimages.com/images/Corbis-SF3847.jpg?size=67&uid=94484be1-4aff-42fc-b7af-aac3f2c356fe

Portrait of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert at the time of their marriage.
After Victoria's husband death in 1861, she remained in mourning for the rest of her life, but during 1870s and 1880s she returned to public view and she was restored to favour with the British public.

http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6103/86441892.22d/0_95ba0_453f1eae_orig.jpg

Portrait of Queen Victoria by Alexander Bassano 1880s.
Victoria died at Osborne House on the Isle of Wight, on 22 January 1901 after a reign which lasted almost 64 years, the longest in British history.

Source: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20782442
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/victoria_queen.shtml
http://madeinatlantis.com/politics/leaders/queen_victoria.htm

Introduction. Victorian beauty ideals

http://beautyundefined.weebly.com/uploads/2/4/7/4/24741647/7991028.jpg

Wide hips and thin waist were an ideal in the Victorians era.

Femininity and brittleness were characteristics of beautiful women in the Victorian Era. Such distinctiveness were often distributed by the woman's hourglass frame with an extremely small waist. However, the idea of beautiful was seemingly impossible to achieve, because a woman with more fat symbolized wealth which was also seen as beautiful. Therefore, women were supposed to be frail, feminine, have curvatious hips and a large bosom yet have impossibly small waist. In order to achieve this virtually impossible figure, women relied heavily upon hoop skirts and more importantly, a corset.
In the Victorians Era was very popular to wear a corset. It was a major garment in every women`s closet.
The corsets was thought as a medical necessity n the 1830s. People believed that women was very weak and needed some support to hold her up. Even three or four years old girls were put into the bodices to avoid any abnormal posture in the future. By the time, all corsets got tighter and tighter, even it trasformed stomach bones and organs structure, that made it impossible to draw deep breath, in or out of the corset. Consequently, Victorian women were always fainting and getting haze.
Here you can see the picture, that shows the bones and organs deformations after using corset.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimjV4EdZ6sP33AkmF9oidxV6UzYzIXDGP_BUAew__k6iMxwHlNpwdFVk8-sfnZvW7KJjwNNj4VB7_SirGj3DFZA7NTVDgLLoVC2XDHb8QJovzJPL1SS5XM-giwix7sEen6yBDwaAmcawyG/s320/corseteffects.png

You can see, that the whole intestine slipped into the hips and the ribs got pressed. That affected women's health. Especially when the women was pregnant. They could loose their baby or in the best cases could came out deformed or with some cardiorespiratory problems.


http://www.avictorian.com/fashion/fashion_corset_body1.jpg
In my opinion, ''the corsets idea'' was totally absurd, because it highly affected the women health. It seems as it was a torture for ladies to wear a corset, and their were forced to wear it just because of the 19s trend. Even though, people noticed, that the corset gave a negative results, they still kept wearing it for a quite long time. It is obvious, that the Victorian era's beauty perception was very immature. Consequently , I am very lucky, that I born in 20 century and I do not need to wear a corset.
The makeup in the Victorian era

The makeup started to be used subtly and garishly after 1870. People applied a cosmetics  to the skin of a medical nature. They applied pastes, powders and paints. People who had acne, some scars, or similar disfigurements, often wore pastes to smooth their complexions. All these product people bought at local pharmacists shops and through doctors, or for the very rich, ordered form specialist dealers abroad. There also were home made makeup product versions, and even poor people where known to used that.

During 1811-20 and 1803-15, aristocratic and affluent man in England started to move away from tasteful silk outfits, wigs and big amount of face paints and pastes, that had been popular at court, peaking with the macaronis in the late 1700s, and continuing with the fashionable dandies. The wars were the biggest influencing trend to adopt more masculines appearances, so the rich gentlemen competed the “rugged” look.

Beau Brummell (1788-1840) influenced Prince Regent to forsake his wigs and adopt minimal make-up, pantaloons, topcoat and waistcoat. Men continued using pastes as moisturisers to hide blemishes and scars.

After the French Revolution (1789 to 1799), women had already gone to limited use of make-up, rouge being the exception.
Queen Victoria denounced painted faces as vulgar, but it was later in the era with her prolonged mourning period, and not until the 1870s with an economic depression that minimalism became the strictest, only to swing back again in the 1880s with the “professional beauties” and completely abandoned in the “Naughty Ninties.”

Only prostitutes and acresses in 1840s, decorated their appearance with excessive paint and tacky jewellery, however, limited use was the rule for most ladies. The most spoilt dandies in about 1850s were still applying makeup and wearing more expensive adornments. During this time ''Creme Celeste'' became very popular. It was made of mixture of white wax, spermaceti (from an organ inside sperm whale#s head), sweet almond oil and rosewater. This facial paste had moisturising properties, but it also hid blemishes and provided a light smooth complexion. It developed into a common emollient and cosmetic remover, soon known as cold cream.

Eyebrows and eyelashes
Ladies clearly plucked their eyebrows, perhaps trim their eyelashes, and parget castor oil onto their eyelids and lashes.

The powder

The women used rice powder, zinc oxide or the most expensive pearl powder(mixture of chloride of bismuth and French chalk (talc) and provided a silky white and lustrous cosmetic powder) to hide redness , blotches and freckles.

The lips
For a shiny lips their applied a clear pomade. It helped to protect them from the elements. Many recipes for lip salve included evergreen bugloss (also known as alkanet) a common weed with blue flowers that provides red dye, the root in particular.

The blusher
In 19 century the pale skin was still the privileged class. For a contrast in the pale face they applied red beet juice or a carmine dye on the cheeks.

The brighter eyes

Ladies used a drop of lemon or orange juice in each eye for the bright eyes, and was considered a cleansing method. Poisonous belladonna was also dropped into the eyes for the pupils to dilate, creating a luminous glow, but clouding vision.
In Victorian era were popular to apply the red and black color eyeshadow, but very subtly and hardly visible. Eye paints was made of mixed lead tetroxide, mercuric sulphide, antimony, cinnabar, vermilion, and secret ingredients. Other way was to put beeswax on their lashes, then apply any number of black powders, from soot to crushed precious stones.
http://www.katetattersall.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Victorian-dressing.jpg

1850s two ''toilet tablets'', of rare wood and bound with brass, lined with lush velvet, both would likely have mirrors in the lids and amongst the various containers include scissors, tweezers, medicine spoons, corkscrews, bodkins, boot hooks, knives, &c. Here women hide their pastes, powders ant paints. Usually only the wealthy women could afford that toilet tablet chest. Some older ladies kept some charming bloom of youth.
Sources: http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735
http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/history-of-victorian-corset.html

Analysis of Miss Havisham character​

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Miss Havisham from Great expectations 2012 movie

http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2012/1/2/1325517221528/Gillian-Anderson-as-Miss--007.jpg
Miss Hvisham from BBC

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Gilian-Anderson5_2063010i.jpg
Miss Havisham from BBC

Miss Havisham from BBC 

One of the most memorable character in the novel ''Great Expectation'' is Miss Havisham. She is a rich dowager , who wears an old wedding dress from the date of her fiance disappeared. Since then she has stopped all Satis House watches at 8:40 and she wears only one shoe, because when she found out about her fiance's betrayal, she still had not managed to get on the second shoe. Since then Miss Havisham has became angry and resentful. She is determined never to move beyond her heartbreak. Even though, Miss Havisham adopts Estella and raises her as a weapon to achieve her own revenge on men. She is full of anger.She hurt Pip and Estella, even though she did not even notice that.
Only at the end of the novel Miss Havisham realized that she smashed the Pip's heart, in the same manner as her own. Then she immediately begs Pip for forgiveness reinforcing the novel’s theme that bad behavior can be redeemed by contrition and sympathy.
Miss Havisham look

Miss Havisham wears an old, ragged wedding dress. Even though, she puts on the bride veil sometimes. I noticed that her skin is pale, drowned in cheeks and dark circles around the eyes like she has never slept. Her lips are cracked and dry and her hair is curly, messy, which is white, grey and black color mix. Literally she is a memorable character, because of her exclusive look.